Monday, September 13, 2010

Dayton

Yesterday was my first outing this season with a crashpad.  Kit, Alli, Amanda, and I headed to the roof for an assessment of our horizontal climbing skills.  Personally, I was really excited to expose these two up and coming sisters from Urban Rocks to this area.  The angle, holds, and technique were all foreign to them.  But that was no problem.  They were psyched!  Not being intimidated, they tried Reconciliation V5 and Torpedo V7, which are probably the hardest things they have ever tried. Unfortunately, the mid-grade problems on the roof are quite burly, not exactly their style.    However, progress was made every time their feet left the ground and both tried as hard as they could until their skin became the limiting factor.

Crushers Alli and Amanda

Kitdog was psyched to concentrate his efforts on a powerful problem called Honeycomb V9/10.  The crux of this one revolves around 3 moves.  The first is a super high right foot to set a bicycle allowing you to release your right hand to gain a shallow three finger dish/pinch (on a roof), which then leads you to a committing punch to a jug that starts the V5 finish.   After a couple of tries Kit had the thing figured out and was linking into the crux but falling just before the jug.  He WILL send.  

Kit on Honeycomb
As for myself, I got warmed up in the usual fashion by doing the exit to most of the problems.  Feeling somewhat good I was curious how Honeycomb felt.  So, I pulled on, set the bicycle, and did the move!!!  I've never been able to really feel the bicycle hook until this try.  I think I did it twice.  As there were several people trying it and still F'n 85 degrees I figured I would stick to the endurance problems.  I forgot how much I like this style.  The roof climbing here forces you to do 180 degree spins, foot jams, and bicycles all on the same problem.  SICK!  So much fun.  I ended up doing Sandblasting Skin V8 and Torpedo V7 after messing around on Dune for a while.  All in all, I am excited to return for more pulling on the nice holds of the Dayton Roof.  
 
C ya.


Cheddar

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