Monday, December 27, 2010

Photo Reel

Let me express how psyched I am on my new camera by posting yet another batch from the last few days.





I'm gonna get some video footage out soon.  FULL 1080 HD!!!

Friday, December 24, 2010

Christmas Eve

Here are some pics from around the house.  The whole family came over!










Merry Christmas yall.

Cheddar

Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Video Urpdate

Here's a quickie of Tractor Traylor at Rocktown, GA.  This roof problem is perfectly sustained all the way to the finish now with the rest jug at the lip having broken off.  What's left is a slopey edge/pinch left hand and forces you to use some other juicy holds to add some spice.   I like.  I was really surprised to knock this one out in one session.



Also, I got my camera today!!!!  Expect to be entertained by yours truly and my media supply.  PSYCHED!!!

Cheddar



Sunday, December 19, 2010

High highs and LOW lows

What is it about the energy of the universe that takes us on this ride of ups and downs, round and rounds, and all the other motions of a roller coaster?  I understand the changing of the tides and the seasons too. But this cycle shows no pattern or is far too complex in physiological processes for me to understand.  At times I find myself climbing better than ever for weeks, no, what the hell, months at a time here recently, and now I find myself bewildered and simply shutdown.  The feeling is numbing, to spend so much time and energy freezing your ass off.  For what?  I just spent four hours in the woods trying to climb a 10 ft. section on a freackin rock!  All in the name of  chasing the send.  Days like these are very deflating and leave me feeling quite unaccomplished.  Am I totally WreCkEd?  Burnt out? Am I trying too hard?  Thinking too much?  No, that's why I can climb at my current level.  I like to climb well and perfect the moves paying close attention to every detail and sequence giving purpose to each attempt.  Ok.  What else?  Well, I did do the Cleo-Cindy trav. pretty quickly the other day.  Cool, but this is a boulder I am very familiar with and it was like 28 degrees outside.  Maybe it's all this damn bouldering!  It seems to me like I was in better form when I was climbing a nice ratio of routes and boulders week by week.  Maybe I need a change of scenery.  Last I heard, we have a crew going to Rocktown tomorrow.  I already feel refreshed not having to go back to LRC to try my projects and with Christmas coming up very soon now I look forward to a trip home to visit my family for a Christams Vacation if you will.

On another note, I think I've been sick for the last three days or so and failed to admit it.  Today I am accepting it as a fact.  So, I'm staying inside cleaning and making a pot of chili.  BOOM!  It's sooo good too.  Not much else has been going on.  I have a new camera on the way that I am VERY excited for and will have lots of pictures and videos to show from it.

Stay tuned.

Cheddar

Sunday, December 12, 2010

That's all folks

As sad as I am that the weekend finale of the 2010 Triple Crown Bouldering Series is over, I am also very glad.  One more day of friends, perma-smile, and climbing banter would have fried my brain like an egg.  My throat had become scratchy from the continuous laughter and talking with friends and my perma-smile resulted in jaws and cheeks that are now sore.

Kelly Bussell photo

 The Triple Crown is MUCH more than an outdoor bouldering series.  It is multi-faceted party/gathering that serves as a fund-raiser (on steroids), gear demo, and finally a competition.  At each of the three comps thousands of dollars are raised for the CCC and SCC that will secure access to yet another crag.  We at the Evolv booth also raised a few hundred dollars for the CCC and SCC from donations in exchange for a Friksn/Metolius cup.  Pretty cool.  The event is sponsored by more companies than I can begin to list here.  Drawing the crowd that it does, usually 400+ attendants, the Triple Crown is ideal for sponsors to showcase new gear as the demos and displays allow us an opportunity to touch and test the newest items on the market  As for the comp, it is constantly evolving.  Each year new sponsors come on board and new categories are added to entertain those who need a reason to go send some new problems.  For example, the Premium Blend category is a race(?) to complete a selected hand full of problems that are generally UBER classics of the boulderfield.  Aside from the comp itself evolving, so too is the party.  At this years finale the entertainment was turned up to 11!!!  The disco lit gym was at capacity as Kurt Smith banged out the jams while Chad Wykle and Jim Horton MC'd the pad stacking and speed climbing comps.  BOOM!!!!  Rumor has it that next years event will go off EVEN BIGGER!  Be psyched.  I was once worried about the longevity of the Triple Crown. Yet, I worry no more.

Kelly Bussell photo
Kelly Bussell photo

Huge props to my man Kelly for letting me use his really nice pictures.  I had this post written last week but was kinda waiting around hoping to get my hands on some visual stimulation. 

Until next time. 

Cheddar

Monday, November 29, 2010

Video update

To recap my day at Rocktown I'll start by saying it was absolutely beautifully perfect out.  Shit was crisp!  Anyway, Kit did The Orb five or six times, but not really.  Bummer.  He'll stick it though.  Caleb was out for his re-intro to Rocktown.  I'd say it went well.  As for myself, I tried Blackout and managed to send My side of the mountain.  This problem is pretty sick.  Lowball?  Yeah.  Pure and aesthetic?  VERY!  Go do it......if you can find it.  From there, we went on to rendezvous with Kit after our detour to the Big Bad Boulder.  I tried Blackout, and tried and tried again.  My lock off skills need to be honed to pull this one in.  We ended up at the Sherman Roof, where, sure enough, Trevor and his dog Futa brought enough psych for us to unroll the pads and strap up just as we were leaving.  Cool.  He did his first V6!

Here's a video.


Sweet.


Later.

Sunday, November 28, 2010

Instinct video

Here is the video of me sending Instinct sit.  This problem is super clean and pure, one way out no questions asked.  I got psyched to put some effort into this one last weekend.  In the years prior, I had always gotten totally shut down on this boulder.  I never even did the stand start until last Saturday.  Anyway, I am so stoked to have done this stand out boulder problem of the highest quality.




Moving on,


Cheddar

Sunday, November 21, 2010

Lately

Things have been bumpin around here recently.  The last month really.  Temps are getting really good and the rain has held off making everyday a potential climbing day.  The sport climbing around town has been in full swing as temps dipped into the 60's and 70's.  I've been able to do the hardest routes of my life, a few of them, and many other test pieces quickly.   To keep fit, I've also been bouldering here and there whenever the wind blows me in that direction.  It always seems to workout no matter what I do.  Plans change for the best sometimes.   For example, I got totally hosed by someone who bailed on me Friday morning.  I was in the pits man.  I called everybody trying to find a partner and nothing worked for me.  It was 70 degrees outside so sport climbing was the objective. I knew I could go bouldering, that's a given in this town.  My sights were set on heading to the Concave.  Yet, I had no choice.  I had to do something with the day.  Flying solo, I left the house around noon heading for Little Rock City.  EVERYONE was there.  It was such a fun day.  I totally forgot how casual and social the approach to bouldering around here is.  With no agenda for the day I ended up at Instinct.  After doing the stand start I got to work figuring out the sit.  Ok. Beta burns were complete and the links began.  Falling repeatedly at the lip I vowed to return the next day to send.  The new day dealt us some overcast skies and warmer than expected air.  Not cool.  My skin was sweaty and so were the boulders.  Also, not cool.  Carrying on, Anthony, Amanda, and I rallied through the boulderfield trying almost everything we walked past.  Momma and Poppa Escandon showed up around 3 or 4 that afternoon, just after Caleb, adding a new dynamic boasting powerful encouragements to our crew.  My efforts on Instinct this day turned out to be heartbreaking.  I was sticking the lip and pulling the next moves before juicing off the face.  WHAT?  I did not expect to fall here.  A few more similar burns emptied my tank and wrecked my skin.  Totally trashed.  Although I didn't send, I got to hang out with a lot of friends I don't usually see at the sport crags.  All in all the weekend was really fun and refreshing.  I look forward to the bouldering season.

Here's a video.

Sunday, November 14, 2010

Boulderave

Ok.  So, Friday, October 22 Urban Rocks hosted the first ever Boulderave.  The idea was to put together an event that would be bigger and better than anything the climbing industry has ever done in Chattanooga.   To do this, we needed help, and we got it.  Rock/Creek stepped up and hit a home run.  Vendors such as Five Ten, Evolv, La Sportiva, Petzl, Black Diamond, Bluewater Ropes, and Good Dog all had tents set up outside creating a town square sort of feel.  The event was now an industry night on top of the cosmic climbing party that was going on inside the gym.




The gym began to fill around 7 that evening.  Attendants strolled along "Vendor Alley"  trying on shoes, checking out gear, and eating Good Dogs.  The lights and music were in full effect as we had at least 10 different lights activated by the sound system we had borrowed from Ron Nance.  Events on the agenda for the night included speed climbing, raffle, costume contest, and a dyno comp.  All were extremely entertaining.  Yes, even the raffle.  Benefiting the Chattanooga area food bank and supplied by Rock/Creek, those who played the raffle did not hold back on playing the odds for a chance to win big. We raised $250 and gave out day passes to Urban Rocks, head lamps, climbing shoes, ropes, harnesses, and many more prizes from local sponsors.





The highlight of the night was the speed climbing comp.  Chris Gibson of Urban Rocks had schemed up a really exciting way to do the speed routes.  The comp went like this.....two routes were set on the lead wall  that were climbed as top rope to the last bolt where climbers had to dyno and smack the finish box, leaving them with no choice but to take the finishing whipper.  Climbers rotated through as they tried to post the lowest combined time.  Very cool.  In the end, Chris Sierzant and Kasia Pietras were separated by two seconds.  In the spirit of putting on a show they requested to do a best two out of three for the final race.  Race number one went to Kasia.  35 ft in 12.5 seconds!  BOOM!  She never fails to impress. Race number two was all Sierzant.  So, it all came down to the last race of the night.  They were neck and neck as the last holds came into view and still as they both lunged for the finish.  Whoa.  Sierzant took the win but their combined times were only two hundredths of a second apart.  Shyeah!


As with every event, all of my favorite people were there.  A huge thanks goes out to Urban Rocks, Rock/Creek, and the Terminal Brewhouse for making this event soooo much fun.

We'll do it again next year.

All photos by Rachel Tucker

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Shawing!

Man!  That was one sick ass weekend.  All of the key ingredients were blended with perfection.  The venue, people, and weather could not have made a better combination.  Spirits were SUPER HIGH as everyone knew exactly what was going down this weekend.

I arrived Thursday morning, set up the Evolv and Sterling tents, and took a walk through the boulderfield.  The night prior had dumped a cold winter-like rain on the mountain top.  To my surprise it was really windy and things were drying quick.  I made note of how cold and sticky things felt and thought this would be a pretty sweet day for climbing.  However, the Monday before the event I went bouldering at Little Rock City with some friends and was recklessly trying super crimpy over hangs.  The next day I woke up to a tender and weak sensation in my right ring finger.  BUMMER!  What happened?  I don't even know.  All I knew was that I probably shouldn't be climbing much.  So, with caution to the wind and crisp boulders to be climbed I began evaluating my injury on easy-moderate problems.  With no pain or real tender feeling I thought to myself, "this is going to be reeaaaalllly fun."  The day ended up being absolutely pleasantly amazing.  I was all alone and had found solitude AT HP40!?!?!  Only occasionally was silence broken as locals and arriving vendors made their way into the boulders.  It was a taste of serenity that I need for balance in life.  Soul mended.  At the end of the day I had done some boulder problems that I had never done before, Slabolicious Low and It's a Natural, which is what it's all about.

Friday was really nice too.  As the park began to fill, tents went up.  The sound of climbers heaving crash pads and tires rolling over the gravel road permeated throughout the day.  Adding to the special feeling of the weekend to come was the sleet!  It was three or four in the afternoon when the grey clouds above started dusting the area with sleet as if we were an entree being salted to taste.  Mmmmmmm.  For me though, the day was all about work.  We had a party to throw.  Kurt Smith and I made the necessary arrangements to make sure that the Evolv, Sterling, and Friksn booths were in full affect.  Hosting chips, candy, and beer we were sure to make a few friends over the weekend.

Comp day.  Shwoah.  I was a little tired from a late night around the campfire.  Fortunately, I wasn't climbing with 300 other people or at all for that matter.  The morning of was like a whirl wind.  Between waking up and setting out the demo shoes I somehow managed to eat breakfast, acquire some coffee from The General, and eventually capture some video footage, all the while fitting 30 or so different people in the appropriate Evolv model.  My time during the comp was spent chilling in the sun with the good people representing the Southeastern Climbers Coalition, Lee Means, and others who stopped by to chat.  The kegs were tapped, gear laid out, and competitors began to fill Vendor Square.  Not long after, the sun set, leaving us with only the heat of barrel fires and each other to stay warm.

The next day was kinda sad, knowing that everyone was leaving and I would be too.  The buzz around the booth was all about who is staying to climb.  I was.  Who else?  We broke down tents, lending each other a hand to do this as mindlessly as possible.  We were all frozen, probably hungover, and barely awake.  Around noon the deed was done.  People were peacin' left and right.  That sound of tires rolling over the gravel drive cruched again just as before.  Ok.  So, who's going climbing?  WOOO!!!  Those that stayed were blessed with one of the best days ever.  I personally was feeling good and on fire.  I quickly sent three new problems, which were Landslide, Green Lantern Low, and Trick or Treat.  All are very worthy of your skin.  The camera kind of got neglected due to our enthusiasm and crushing nature as a group.  We never really spent much time at any one spot.  People were sending.  Lunch was on the horizon for me now.  I wanted to stay and finish out the day trying to settle some left over business.  As the others left, I grabbed my book, On The Road, and headed back out to have my serenity once more.  I think I ate too much.  My efforts were slightly less energized than before.  Maybe I had come to terms with satisfaction of the way things had gone down up to this point.  Everything seemed to happen just as I hoped it would.  Anyway, I was the first one in and last one out.

 Here's the video.



I LOVE ROCK CLIMBING!

Cheddar.

Sunday, October 31, 2010

Toast

This is a toast, to all of us out there welcoming the changing of the seasons.  We don't make plans unless they involve climbing and priorities suddenly shift like nothing else matters.  The temperature is falling, leaves are changing, and the rocks, oh man, the rocks are getting crisp.  I can't say that I enjoy any one time of year more than the Fall.  Everyday I go out seems like it's the best day I've ever had.  Projects from the previous season and new ones alike go down in flames.  Let's here it for sending.  WOOOOO!!!!!!!!  

So I went out to Foster Falls today with Mark Williams and his friend Nicole.  The agenda for the day was to do some serious rock climbing, concentrated efforts. I had previously sent The Big Empty (YAY!!!) and shifted my focus to a pretty sick route called Kill or be Killed.  My initial efforts on the route were a little deflating, but I was psyched to put in the time today to work this thing out.  So, the first go I did some beta refining and made a good link.  My second go was a completely different story.  After blasting off some Snoop Dogg from the sit down rest, I cruised through the first crux lock off, feeling good moving on to the next crux, still moving and then.......PUNT!   Damn!  I should have sent.  I was looking at the jug that starts the 5.10 two bolt finish.  The next go I was obviously tired, resulting in two easy one hangs for the day.  To me this represents a monumental breakthrough in my climbing.  Damn life is good.

I'll be at the HP40 Triple Crown event this weekend.  I leave Wednesday to set up the Evolv and Sterling booths in preparation for a kick ass party.

Hope to see you all there.

Cheddar

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Best Week Ever

Yep.  Last week was absolutely amazing.  I love being able to say that too without even leaving my home town. To start things off my birthday was Sunday, 10/10/10!!!  I knew it was going to be the birthday of the millennium.  I guess you could say that the celebration started on Friday when Trevor and I went to this place on the cumberland trail for a morning session.  Not too much happened.  We both wanted to get out before working the River Rocks event at Urban Rocks.  Anyway, I got super close to sending the Deep Show .13a and the event was really cool too.  Check the Facebook page for pics and write up.

Saturday,  the Escandons and I went to Dayton, which was my third or forth trip to the area this season.  Everyone was stoked on one thing, climbing.  The energy that was shared, brought through the laughter and successes of our existence under this massive roof is what made this particular day special.  On top of how much fun it was, I was able to do First Blood V9 on my first try.  I had tried it 2 other days and had some beta blocks, which was very frustrating.  The others invested their energy into attempts on Contra V6.  Anthony E. came ridiculously close at least 5 times.  Next time for sure.

Recently, I've been climbing with a lot of different people.  This always brings new energy and shared psych. I find it refreshing and invigorating to my senses and mentality towards each attempt.   It lifts the weight of frustration.  It's all for fun, no pressure.

Pics from the day.






Sunday rolled around too soon after our night on the town.  Trevor, my homie/roommate, was stoked for the cumberland trail climbing again and so was I.  We had intentions of warming up slow on two new 5.11's we'd heard about, but that didn't happen.  PSYCH TOOK ME OVER!  I had to hang the draws anyway.  So I gave it my all on the first climb of the day and almost did The Deep Show .13a with Warren's left hand beta on the fly. Good stuff.  Thanks Warren.  I sent in the next two goes.  Trevor got to the top of The Ear for the first time. I think he one hung it while hanging the draws. Sick.  With the main objective completed, I was excited to go for an onsight burn of Strutter .12b.  This crag is sooooo good for onsight climbing and overhanging .12's.  Love it.  The onsight was truly epic.  I can't even tell you how long it took.  I know that it got dark while I was cleaning it.  Endurance........check.  

So, Tuesday shows it's face and I started the day setting some boulder problems at the gym. Monday was supposed to be a rest day, but I ended up climbing some with Kit, Alli, and Amanda before yoga.  So, still riding the high from the success of previous sends and early attempts on Honeycomb V9/10, I set out for Dayton that afternoon and sent first try.  BOOM!   Now what?  I left.  Round trip, from my house and back to the gym, was less than three hours.   Word.   

All is good in tha HoOd.  



  

Monday, October 4, 2010

Beefcake Pantyhose

And it's about damn time.  I was getting fed up with battling the 90+ degree temps all the way through September.  The leaves had changed a little, but that was only because they were dying from this heinous heat and drought.  However, last weeks rain brought what we had all been anticipating so anxiously, FALL!

What better way is there to start the season off with a trip to Boone, NC for the first leg of the Triple Crown?  The Hound Ears comp is always a blast as the venue, environment, and people are just out of my atmosphere, making it feel like a vacation.  I think this applies to everyone though, respectively, as the venue changes.  That is what keeps the energy of the series alive and makes these events special.

P-Funk

The weather was absolutely beautiful Friday and Saturday.   Beautiful, yes.  Primo, NO!  Saturday was a hard day to rock climb.  I'm not sure what it was, but everyone seemed to agree that it was not a good day. Rock climbing was HARD!  The high was around 65 degrees, which is not bad, but it sure isn't good.  After five or so people had groped your crux hold, shit was wet.  This was usually all while they (gropers) were carrying on a conversation as the line for the next attempt grew.  Due to this, I personally am DONE climbing during the comp, it's not my thing, climbing at the pace of the session on whatever problem.  I like to sit down and hang out with each climb.  I like the serenity of nature and quiet thought.  Most importantly, I like the experience and aura that each problem emits.  This is why I climb.

Mtn. man Nate Hefner

Competitors on the other hand are PSYCHED!  While this year's comp was on a hard day for climbing, that didn't stop people from sending.  For example, Brad Weaver did Random Man V11 as other men in the open field had trouble repeating.  Jimmy and Brion both did new problems this year too, as they climbed Wet Dream V9 and The Jerk V8.  It's always good to see these guys doing new problems in their circuit.  Comp day is probably getting boring as they drive 5 hours to do the same problems they did last year.  Yuk!  This is why I think it's safe to say that Brion and Jimmy will bow out of next year's Triple Crown.

On another note, October is goin to be F'n sweet!  Here's my schedule of events to attend.

10/1 - 10/10  River Rocks Chattanooga is a week long event celebrating all of Tennessee Valley's outdoor lifestyles and environmental conservation and stewardship.



10/8 - 10/10 Roctoberfest at the Red River Gorge.


10/22 Boulderave at Urban Rocks Gym


10/30 Reel Rock Film Tour at First Avenue Rocks


October will kick some ass.

Cheddar

Friday, September 24, 2010

Brain on? Brain on.

A recent mishap has spawned a lot of thought and debate around the house.   Yet another drop occurred Tuesday here in the Chattanooga area at Leeda.  The climber was more of a rope gun on this particular day as he had taken several, less experienced, people to show them the sport.  His belayer claimed to be well versed in knowledge and technique, which he is with an ATC.  That may be true, ahghumm, but this accident was 100% belayer error.  DROP!  The story goes like this....

Before climbing it was understood that a lead fall was going to be demonstrated.  The two did their gear check.  The knot was good, the grigri was loaded properly, and climbing began.  Right around the 25 foot mark the climber "fell" off the wall, but never to be caught.  From my understanding, he landed on his back with only the friction of the belayers hand and his own leg slowing the fall.  Both have severe burns that tell the story.

It turns out that the belayer was hesitant in using the grigri, but hubristicly carried on to belay with one.  When the "fall" happened,  it is believed that the belayer SPACED and held the cam down on the grigri, leaving his left hand above the belay device to catch all of the weight.  Amazingly, no injuries were sustained and the climber walked away with nothing more than a humbled piece of mind.

So, what can we learn from this?  A LOT.

First off, know your climbing partners.  Your life is literally in their hands.

Secondly, COMMUNICATION is THE KEY to a safe climbing experience.  Never assume anything.  I think the mentality of a group can sometimes get in the way of the serious nature of what is actually taking place, which results in leaving things open ended and perhaps unknown.  Gear checks and commands may seem cheezy, but they're not.  Do it!

Finally, know your gear.  The grigri is an assisted braking belay device.  To catch a fall the climber is to hold the free end of the rope, like they would an ATC, while the cam pivots to pinch the rope in the grigri.  This is not a hands free or dummy proof device.  USER ERROR MAY RESLUT IN SEVERE INJURY OR DEATH.

So, how do you hold the grigri?  Or better yet what is your instinct when your climber falls?  Instinct should be to lower your hands on the free end of the rope to your side or "brake position", like when belaying with an ATC.  This is why I think everyone should belay with an ATC for a while when they start climbing.  I believe it is more engaging. To be responsible for the braking without any assurance that the belay device will catch them for you is the only way to develop such instincts and avoid lazy habits.   As always, practice is crucial in developing your skill and comfort level with any belay device.  Therefore,  find a correct method that works best for you and stick to what you know.

Check the Video link below.
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x50vsu_grigri-belaying-the-leader_sport


This was a Public Service Announcement.

Monday, September 13, 2010

Dayton

Yesterday was my first outing this season with a crashpad.  Kit, Alli, Amanda, and I headed to the roof for an assessment of our horizontal climbing skills.  Personally, I was really excited to expose these two up and coming sisters from Urban Rocks to this area.  The angle, holds, and technique were all foreign to them.  But that was no problem.  They were psyched!  Not being intimidated, they tried Reconciliation V5 and Torpedo V7, which are probably the hardest things they have ever tried. Unfortunately, the mid-grade problems on the roof are quite burly, not exactly their style.    However, progress was made every time their feet left the ground and both tried as hard as they could until their skin became the limiting factor.

Crushers Alli and Amanda

Kitdog was psyched to concentrate his efforts on a powerful problem called Honeycomb V9/10.  The crux of this one revolves around 3 moves.  The first is a super high right foot to set a bicycle allowing you to release your right hand to gain a shallow three finger dish/pinch (on a roof), which then leads you to a committing punch to a jug that starts the V5 finish.   After a couple of tries Kit had the thing figured out and was linking into the crux but falling just before the jug.  He WILL send.  

Kit on Honeycomb
As for myself, I got warmed up in the usual fashion by doing the exit to most of the problems.  Feeling somewhat good I was curious how Honeycomb felt.  So, I pulled on, set the bicycle, and did the move!!!  I've never been able to really feel the bicycle hook until this try.  I think I did it twice.  As there were several people trying it and still F'n 85 degrees I figured I would stick to the endurance problems.  I forgot how much I like this style.  The roof climbing here forces you to do 180 degree spins, foot jams, and bicycles all on the same problem.  SICK!  So much fun.  I ended up doing Sandblasting Skin V8 and Torpedo V7 after messing around on Dune for a while.  All in all, I am excited to return for more pulling on the nice holds of the Dayton Roof.  
 
C ya.


Cheddar

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Beer Chugging Lock Off

Labor day weekend has come and gone.  And it was F'n sweet!  Nate Drolet and I took off to the Red River Gorge friday afternoon for an extended weekend of climbing on the best sandstone cliffs in the US.

Odub on Swingline .13d
As always, arriving at Miguel's comes with a warm welcome from familiar faces.  The smell of the pizzeria and lack of hygiene from the occupants of the campground let you know that this is one kick ass place.



Saturday morning started out at the Solar collector, which is a great wall that is filled with moderates, which makes it a great place to warm up for The Dark Side.



The Dark Side wall is truly BAD ASS!!!  The focus of the day was to take care business, send.   My focus was on The Force .13a and Drolet's was Elephant Man .13b.  The Force, what an amazing endurance route.  It starts with a burly opening jump move to a sloper that is good.  Quickly moving off this you move on to clip #2 and start pulling on the perfect bowling ball like pockets for a few moves that lead you to a jug at #3.  This is where the route really starts.  Hard moves off the rest lead you through a 3 bolt section to your next rest, which is alright.  For me this was the crux, moving past the last bolt into the redpoint crux.  The wall suddently kicks back a little more and the holds are a lot worse than those that lead up to this point.  The moves become precise and sequential through 10 ft of shallow capped pockets.  Heinous!  I think I fell twice this day on my way to the chains.  F!

Matt Hughes on Elephant Man

  So that was kind of a bummer that Nate and I couldn't take down our target in one day.  When we got back to Miguel's we heard talk of some beer chugging lock off comp that was going down.  Sean Stewart, Max Marlowe, and Spencer Victory (all outrageous homies)  had schemed up one hell of a show.  Spencer was a maniac of an MC as he gave all the participants a rediculous intro before it was time for them to crank.  Five or so guys lined up to take one another on in who could drink the most beer while in a lock off at 90 or above.  Absolutely hilarious shit man.  Check it.
Sean Stewart running things.


Sunday was rough to say the least.  Beer lock off chugging, I think I got third or fourth with two beers, and skin that got shredded at the dark side (aka sharp side) had done me in.  The plan was to have an active rest day at The Motherload.  Whoa.  I was more wrecked than I thought.  I think I climbed three or so pitches.  The whole day was basically spent chilling and checking out some lines for future visits.  My skin was toast!  


All in all the weekend was dope.  I didn't send a damn thing.  Nate ended up doing Elephant Man his second try on Monday.  Very solid send indeed.  My efforts were not wasted though.  Endurance and understanding of this style was gained.  Sport around Chatty is not even similar to the type of pump this place gives.  I really want to spend 2 or 3 weeks here at some point to get it dialed and send something beautiful and hard.  Till then, I'm going to continue my indoor training and climbing routes outside when it is nice out.  Temps are starting to feel better here in Chatty, but still not even close to ideal. 




Till next time,

Chaz