Friday, October 11, 2013

Birthday bash

The 29th year has gripped me tightly and I can't shake it.  It's the morning after and I just had birthday cake and milk for breakfast.  No matter the number, I am younger than ever.  However, I seem to be a lot more responsible and accountable.  But isn't that what makes us young?   Being irresponsible and unaccountable?  oh well....

I'm hosting Mike Turner of Evolv Sports this week as we prepare for the Triple Crown festivities and visit some accounts in the area.  Being from So Cal he has a bit of a transition to deal with on the rock of the south.  Of course, I took him to LRC for a proper Southeastern  goo fest of a bouldering day in Oct...Tank tops and shorts were still too much...

No birthday sends this year.  We went out climbing at Deep Creek after a long day of travel and work. Yes, on my birthday we did work, I guess that's part of growing up.  I was trying this new route that just got sent last week.  It's on the left side of the Dungeon.  Starts under the horizontal roof and works through a series of tiered roofs toward the final crux lip turn.  I think I pulled my hamstring a little too pulling the low roof with a heel hook.  I blame it on countless hours in the car over the last two days.  

Now we are all geared up and ready to begin the Triple Crown Chattanooga and RiverRocks fistivities this weekend!  I love this time of year, when the whole southeastern climbing community comes together in one place for a good time.  Psyched to see all my friends!  


Thursday, May 23, 2013

Rendezvous X

Show me your X!!!!!  Man, that dance party was off the hook.  On stage was DJ Mon Voyage Neon with a shirtless Kurt Smith raging like there is no tomorrow.  We had the whole Southern Fried Team Evolv front and center representing for the industry folk.  After all, the hard work was done and it was our turn to let loose.  Good times...

The weekend was an absolute success.  The people were out in high spirits and large numbers all here to support the cause.  The weather was typical for the Rendezvous, except this time around Saturday was breezy and dry.  Whoohoo!  I'm sure everyone in attendance got at least two days of climbing in.  I managed three out of my longer stay at the New.  Here's a pic of me on Lactic Acid Bath...

I don't have that many more pics of the party or climbing.  My time was split between running the dyno comp and relaxing whenever possible.  I did manage this one of Salewa's Matt Whiteman forerunning the table boulder.

Friday, March 1, 2013

The Countdown

And so it begins.  The inevitable warming is upon us.  It happens every year when we least expect it, as if we had lost track of time.  The day gets warmer and the night not colder. Yep, it's March 1st and spring is just around the corner.  Although, you wouldn't know it from the past week of primo climbing conditions.

It really has been good friction conditions down here in the south recently.  The days have been a mix of sunny and 45 degrees and overcast with wind at 45 degrees.  pRiMo!  As always, I've been torn between projects and trying to make something happen everyday out. I found that this season I was always working toward something. The goal this season was more of an all around goal.  I wanted to do 10 V9's (Done!) and finish off strong in the route game, which is sort of just beginning. ??? I guess I still have some time on that one. Basically what I'm saying is that if I don't do Psychopath this season is lost.  HAhaha just kidding.  But that is my new focus.  Definitely a fickle route.  I've chosen not to do the extra climbing out left to the rest and just tackle the rig straight on.  Full on hard 8a! On top of that, I found that it needs to be the right temp outside as well for this thing.  If it's too cold I numb out on the finicky pockets.  Too hot, no friction.  So, 50 degrees is ideal.  Yep, I've still got some time on this one.

Anyway, here are some pics I took the day after Rock N Rave (yep, we went climbing).  I took my buddy Zach up to Lookout Mtn for a tour of the mountain.  He managed to send Nine Lives and couldn't quite make the link on Astro Zombies.  Zach Campbell is the head setter at Climb Nashville and has been very motivated recently to progress his climbing.  He and his brother, Brandon, just got back from a trip to Sswizzy where they both sent their hardest boulders to date.  Nice!

Also, Hefner and I went out to Rocktown yesterday and did some boulders.  Nate was on a mission to do the hardest V10's at Rocktown.  No dice...Pics below.  I on the other hand was out to complete my 10 V9 goal.  And I did it!  The tenth of the season was B Cubed on the big bad boulder.  I did all the moves pretty quickly.  Then it came time to execute.  On my second attempt I punted off the last move, after I had stuck it.  Sucks.  So, after that I had some serious beta issues and things just weren't clicking.    Out of sheer desperation and throwing myself at this thing one last time, I was on top.  Wow.  Then we went on to the dugout boulder.  I was done for the day but Nate was psyched to climb some moderates.  And wouldn't you know it, we were trying the hardest two boulder problems on the wall.  Somehow, I managed to send Roughin the Rottweiller.  I never thought I'd do this boulder, but it turned out not to be so bad.

Tuesday, February 19, 2013


Wow.  There sure has been a lot happening since the last time I posted.  So, I'll start from the beginning.

I spent the last two weeks in the Carolinas.  My trip began as I headed out the door one morning on my way to Sunrift Adventures in Travelers Rest, SC.  We rocked an Evolv demo that night and worked up some plans to check out Rumbling Bald the next day.  And we did!  This was the first time I had been to the area.  My head was on a swivel as we drove through mountains and down into the valleys.  I wasn't really sure what to expect.  Was it gonna be flat terrain? Overhung?  Crimpy?  Sharp?  No, yes, yes, no.  The approach is moderately easy, only because your taking switch backs on a bulldozed path up this hill.  Otherwise, yes it is all uphill.  The climbing was varied.  Most bolders were exposed on three sides having fallen off the cliff above.  It's very interesting how the boulders clustered.  It's as if certain parts of the cliff gave way, leaving piles of boulders in certain areas rather than being a consistent concentration. Being NC granite, it is very crimpy.  The rock just naturally forms edges that are perfect for pulling on.  My friend Jared Hancock showed me around.  I really wanted to see the Brackish boulder.  So we went there and climbed....a lot.  

Brackish Water from Chaz Warren on Vimeo.

I love the days that I can go outside and climb on my road trips.  It makes me appreciate the gift of everything we find in nature that much more.  Seeing the double yellow for hours on end can be taxing.  My body and mind need exercise to stay sharp and alert.  Thanks Jared!

From there I had to, yep, drive to Brevard, NC for an Evolv demo and dyno comp that night.  We had about 50 people come out and huck past the Evolv banners toward the finish holds.  The local news paper even came out and gave us the cover the next day!  Team Evolv NC was there in full force.  Love these guys....and gals.

I left there the next morning and headed to Asheville. Still, my head was on a swivel.  I've been to the Boone area but never Asheville.  The country is so beautiful there.  I thought about going to the Biltmore Mansion on my way back to Greenville like three or four times, seriously considering it too.  But then I realized I had time to get back to Brevard and go out with Travis and Eric.  The day was rainy.  I didn't care.  So, we headed to Looking Glass with high hopes.  And sure enough, we found dry holds leading to a wet topout.  Not to say I expected more.  I even managed to send this rig.

Travis likes Drunkgirl 7B+
Plan executed.  I arrived in Greenville that night in time to catch the 9:00 showing of Warm Bodies.  Zombie love story. Yes.  haha....It was alright.  The next day was EORA set up.

And finally, after a week and a half on the road, I got back the day before Valentines Day.  Little did Chandler know that I had BIG plans for our evening.  That's right I popped the question! She said yes!  

And here is another shorty.  I drove up the mountain yesterday on my lunch break and put this rig to rest.  I was ambitious but cautious in my approach.  No warmups, haven't tried this boulder in years, and overall not sure if I remember how to do it.  So, I started at the top, which is easier, and worked my way down, doing link by link until I got to the start.  From there I fell on the second move once, which is the crux, and then linked it to the top next try!  Total time spent at the boulder = 1 hour.  

Nine Lives from Chaz Warren on Vimeo.

We're getting married!


Thursday, February 7, 2013

Snow days and Boulders

Whoa.  The last month has kept me super busy.  Looking back I can say that I have had so many different things going on that I am having trouble figuring out where to start.  I can remember climbing at Twall with Nate, replacing all the gear on psychopath, falling two moves from the anchor (crux), and then the rain came.  Maybe the Minnesotans brought the rain?  The next thing I remember is two weeks of rain and time spent hiking to show our guests around.  Then I had to leave for Winter OR.

Emily and Zach (first two pics) had been in the south for a week I guess and had been chasing the weather across Tennessee and North Carolina.  They ended up coming to chatt and renting a room at my place for shelter until the rain stopped.  As the days passed it seemed like it would never stop raining!  How can this be happening?  These two are watching the climbing days on their trip pass by and I am leaving for OR soon.  Checking the weather became a joke.  I was so close to sending so many routes and boulders that I had been working on.  Every day I thought, "OK, I'm leaving for SLC in a week". Then it was 5 days, then 3, and then it was time to go.  We had one good day bouldering at Rocktown after the rain turned to snow but it wasn't one that I would make any progress on.  As I left town, I felt like I had just been robbed of completing what would have been the highlight of my season.

And wouldn't you know it, I returned to rain.  In a way that was a good thing as I had plenty on my plate to do.  What's the point of attending the trade show if you can't drum up any work?  2013 is going to be a good year.

And here comes the old familiar story.  I'm in town for a week, it's raining, and I have one or two days to get outside.  Bummer.

I know I may sound super gripey and depressed but man, the weather always gets good right when I get ready to leave town.  The few days I did go out were spent with Emily and Zach.  Those two moved here as acquaintances and friends of friends, but now I consider them good friends and am very happy to have shared that time with them.  

I'm in Brevard, NC right now.  Look for an update on the trip next week.  


Thursday, January 10, 2013

Twall shoot

The other day Nate Hefner and I went up to Twall and met up with some friends of ours to plug some gear and capture some photos.  Everything went super smooth.  Beckett hung a line at the top of Hungry for Heaven, which is a nice 5.10, and the shoot began.  We were all pretty psyched to see that the pics turned out really good.  Finally some pics of ME!  Have a look.  All Nate Hefner photos. 

Been having fun placing gear.  More to come!  


Monday, December 31, 2012

Mediocre Pancakes

It occurred to me the other night while I was eating a nice chili dinner that I had been doing it all wrong.  What was I thinking?  I mean, c'mon Chaz!  Can you be a little more creative than mediocre pancakes?  Throw some Bananas or Blueberries up in there.  You could even put some chocolate chips in there.  Sheesh....

Anyway, I'm sitting on the sideline this week with a shoulder injury.  The coach let me wear a headset and make all sorts of crazy hand and arm movements to the players on the field that aren't even looking at me.  Psyched!  Thanks coach!

I don't recall an incident involving shoulder use or abuse that would have done this.  Maybe it's just inflamed from overuse?  Unfortunately it feels like a rotator cuff.  I can't comfortably lift my hands over my waist with my arms straight.  Snow angels or the YMCA dance are impossible right now.

Since I couldn't go climbing yesterday I washed and waxed Helga and took her out for a photo shoot.

Hope you liked this post.  It's quite different from the normal content.