Saturday, October 29, 2011

Injured

I've been on the injured reserve the past couple of weeks.  And by injured reserve I mean if I need to climb to keep the flow going, I will.  My left middle finger is tweaked at the A1.  I was in denial for the first month or so of pain and soreness, but dropping temps and lingering projects had me tempted to climb and test my ability despite the injury.  Well, it's a reality now.  I guess I have to take some time off.  Climbing is still something that I want to be a part of so if you see me out shooting photos or video let me know if you are close on something or psyched to repeat for video.  My homie Brandon Campbell and I are working on a movie project.....so let me know!

Here is a taste of his work:


And here is an old one of mine from last year's HP40 TC comp.  Be there this time next week!


Hope you liked 'em.

Cheddar

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Round 2

Ok ok ok ......Here we go with another exciting round of hooks, jabs, and upper cuts.  Folks were bobbing and weaving left and right.  I hope these folks had their footwork skills honed and ready for use as the Stone Fort boulderfield is known for clean smooth faces with few features.  While it was great day to be outside, it wasn't so great for climbing.  Morning temps were 55 and climbed up to 80 that afternoon.  I got sunburnt and broke a sweat.

Preregistration was the night before at Urban Rocks' Boulderave.







Boulderave pics by Brandon Campbell.

However hot, this was by far one of the most unique comp events I have ever experienced.  Here's the story.....For the past 30 years climbers have been sneaking in to this boulderfield from the top as they tried to remain unseen from the clubhouse and golfers.  Access was strictly off limits and remained so until the work of Chad Wykle and Jim Horton turned things around in 2004, when the first Triple Crown comp was held here.  Since that time the SCC has managed a relationship with the folks at Montlake to secure access and keep everyone happy.  What was once off limits had now been opened to the public with a limited number of users per day.  SCORE!!!  And now here we are, almost 8 years later celebrating our sport on the 18th fairway.  I was reminded of this story when a developing climber of the area showed up not to climb, but to play on stage with Slim Pickens.  To think that a decade ago he was sneaking in here to go bouldering and on this visit he was driving his car down the cart path to play a show on the 18th fiarway is pretty cool.

The golf course totally closed down for this event this year and we were able to set up vendor alley in the middle of the fairway.  Also.....golf course boulders were open for climbing!!!  Very cool.  Competitors were encouraged to climb on and establish new problems anywhere they could. No boulders were off limits for the first time EVER!  Many proud lines went up and some were left undone.













The time for awards was marked by a busy vendor alley and a setting sun.  Congrats to all the competitors who fought hard despite the warm temps.  My favorite part of the whole day was experienced during the showing of A Fine Line.  Here we were, all 400 of us sitting quietly under the clear sky streaked with ribbon like clouds that were highlighted by the bright moon.  The faces of everyone in attention were silhouetted by the glowing screen.  The mood was that of total satisfaction....and exhaustion.  The movie was slow and engaging, which was spot on for the time.

Who booked this band?

Snake skin cowboy hats and camo shirts!





I'm heading to the Sterling Rope factory this week for a rep visit.  I am so excited to see the factory and learn as much as I can about this amazing product. 

Till next time!

Cheddar

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Round 1 of 3: Hound Ears

This fight is scheduled for 3 rounds.  In the blue corner, composed of sandstone and quartz shaped by the wind and the rain, weighing in at an unfathomable amount.....BOULDERS!!!!  And in the red corner, made of blood, tears, and sweat shaped by countless days in training, weighing in at an average 150 lbs.....the competitors!!!  Let's get it on!

Round one is said and done with.  The competitors drove from all corners of the continent sacrificing their jobs, grades, and family.  Well, maybe not their family.  Anyway, mother nature was off to a dominating first few seconds, relatively, as the boulders glistened with moisture and dared any competitor to attempt conquering them.  With such domination and intimidation the boulders would keep the competitors against the ropes for another day.

With the comp cancelled, most in attendance fled the campground in search of mountain fun.  They didn't have to search to hard.  The word was wet.  The reality was Dry!  The wind had been howling for hours and continued on into the afternoon, drying everything at Grandmother Mtn., which is where we found our afternoon fun.





The next day was looking more like the day for a fight.  The skies were clearing and remained cold and windy.  Perfect.  It was now the competitors who backed the boulders up against the ropes, packing punches and toppling them like pebbles.  The cold and windy conditions gave way around noon to a sunny sky with a nice breeze.  This could be the nicest comp day ever at any Triple Crown event.  Result, competitors win by KO.  











In three days we will be setting up for the Stone Fort comp here in Chattanooga.  I LOVE THIS TIME OF YEAR!  

Cheddar