Sunday, November 21, 2010

Lately

Things have been bumpin around here recently.  The last month really.  Temps are getting really good and the rain has held off making everyday a potential climbing day.  The sport climbing around town has been in full swing as temps dipped into the 60's and 70's.  I've been able to do the hardest routes of my life, a few of them, and many other test pieces quickly.   To keep fit, I've also been bouldering here and there whenever the wind blows me in that direction.  It always seems to workout no matter what I do.  Plans change for the best sometimes.   For example, I got totally hosed by someone who bailed on me Friday morning.  I was in the pits man.  I called everybody trying to find a partner and nothing worked for me.  It was 70 degrees outside so sport climbing was the objective. I knew I could go bouldering, that's a given in this town.  My sights were set on heading to the Concave.  Yet, I had no choice.  I had to do something with the day.  Flying solo, I left the house around noon heading for Little Rock City.  EVERYONE was there.  It was such a fun day.  I totally forgot how casual and social the approach to bouldering around here is.  With no agenda for the day I ended up at Instinct.  After doing the stand start I got to work figuring out the sit.  Ok. Beta burns were complete and the links began.  Falling repeatedly at the lip I vowed to return the next day to send.  The new day dealt us some overcast skies and warmer than expected air.  Not cool.  My skin was sweaty and so were the boulders.  Also, not cool.  Carrying on, Anthony, Amanda, and I rallied through the boulderfield trying almost everything we walked past.  Momma and Poppa Escandon showed up around 3 or 4 that afternoon, just after Caleb, adding a new dynamic boasting powerful encouragements to our crew.  My efforts on Instinct this day turned out to be heartbreaking.  I was sticking the lip and pulling the next moves before juicing off the face.  WHAT?  I did not expect to fall here.  A few more similar burns emptied my tank and wrecked my skin.  Totally trashed.  Although I didn't send, I got to hang out with a lot of friends I don't usually see at the sport crags.  All in all the weekend was really fun and refreshing.  I look forward to the bouldering season.

Here's a video.

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